Just thought I would update this thread to say that after cleaning the power tube socket and checking the various non-soldered internal connections and putting it back together that the noises are gone. So, a bit of simple maintenance solved the issue. Edited to add that I used a little bit of rubbi...

Well after removing the tubes and putting them back in again, the noise is pretty much gone. I'm betting the power tube socket is a bit dirty, and working it a few times has cleared some of the corrosion. One of these days I'll have to pickup some contact cleaner and do a proper cleaning.

Ok, so I have two Class 5 heads. One I purchased new and the other used. They both sound the same once warmed up. However, the used one makes some radio static type noises during the first 30 seconds of warm up and then goes away and it's fine after that. Volume changes do not affect the sound as it...

Cousin Muely wrote:That's a nice looking mod McBride. So, the bright switch gives you back some nice highs when it is attenuated?

Correct.

Thanks. Simple and effective.

By the way, it sounds better than the headphone trick and I don't have to move any cables when I use it. I can run whatever gain level I want at whatever volume I want, or flip the switch and the circuit is bypassed. Here is the design I based mine off of. I used a 50 watt L-Pad. I hardwired the 4.7...

Well I ended up building an attenuator that I put inside the speaker cab. I only built one to test and it worked great. It didn't even get warm when I was testing it out. I will probably build the second when I get time.

Sounds like an attenuator would be the way to go. Maybe I'll just plan on making one and mounting it inside the speaker cab. Then I can keep the heads stock and have access to the attenuator for ajustment or bypass since the cabs are open back.

So, on a related, but seperate subject. Has anyone changed the resister that is used for the headphone jack/low power mode? Maybe for something that provides the same 16 Ohm load, but with less resistance so that the "low power mode" would be louder? I ask because personally, I don't think I will ev...

Maybe it's more of a mental thing that the speaker cable is partially inserted into a jack. Strange huh?

That is all abou doing the mod on the original combo. Is it done the same way on the head?

anyone?

I know that on the head I can move the switch to headphone and then plug the speaker cable in 3/4 of the way in to access "low power" mode. I would like to be able to just flip the switch (like the combo) and not have to move the speaker cable. Has anyone done this on the heads and have pictures? I ...

I have the C5-01 combo. Mine has a quiet hum when powered on. It does not change with volume. I figured it is normal for a class A NMV amp. I did rotate the OT 90 degrees like the photo above, but it didn't make any change that I can tell. Maybe it's just due to how the internal wires are routed. I ...

It looks like the C5 handle (for the head) is ~ 11" from screw to screw. Please let us know what you hear back from Marshall. :Cheers Really? It's only 8" from screw to screw on my C5-01 combo. Marshall e-mailed me for my address and are sending me a stock replacement. (either the bracket or the wh...

Any updates on this? One of my gold plastic handle brackets is cracked and I would like to replace it. I sent a message to Marshall about a replacement, but wouldn't mind replacing it with a metal bracket instead.

Edited for spelling.