Led dead, Ratlling.. still Great! & Question to Steve D

[realbole]

Hello there!
I bought my VM 2266c at the local music store few month ago.
Really dig the tone, guess it's the small version of what I always wanted, an old Plexi (non EL34) + 4x12 Greenbacks. So this is half of it, plus that wonderful preamp/booster that really leaves me no choice but to forget about my other boosting devices. :D

Well, I went through some issues with this amp:

"The Tube Rattle"
Yeah it's there. But I found that it goes away almost completely, if you (gently but firmly) push the tubes into their sockets a bit(!), using a clean rag or something to protect your fingers. A little push and the rattle is gone. You have to hold it though...
I read the debate about new type of retainers but I guess they wouldn't help much while they would be vibrating along with the Amp. Some kind of a firm retainers could help though. A bridge that would firmly hold the tubes to their sockets (not the springie ones I guess). Dunno if that's good for the tubes though.
Maybe Steve D could say something about this Idea?

"Back Panel Rattle"
Dunno if that's the case with my amp. I took it off the first day to check on "Tube Rattle" and never put it back on. I do figure that the metal panel stabilizes the wooden board underneath it when screwed on. At higher volumes it might be of some importance to minimizing mechanical rattle of the Amp.

"Transformer Buzz"
I don't hear any yet, although I read somewhere that mechanical noises can develop in time with 2266c, that worries me a bit.
There's no aluminum plate between the chassis and the power transformer, but it doesn't buzz either.
Steve D, is there a chance that it will develop a buzz in time, if it doesn't buzz from the beginning?

Steve said this as well: "There will be some very low level mains hum vibration detectable only in very quiet environments, this is natural."
I do get some hum when switching the stand-by on, even with the volume down to 0. It comes from the back of the amp and it goes away when stand-by switch is turned back off (meaning the amp is muted). I imagine that's the output transformer being turned on and off. Right?

"Purple Led"
And finally... Yes, it did blew up on me too, just two days ago, but I don't care! :D
I even kinda like it with only the blue/white dynamic range light, and that also tells me that the amp is on.
The main purple led has no other function, right? I may fix it some time though.

Looks like there are some issues with this amp, but I still love the tone and that's what's it all about. Could send it back to get the aluminum tranny plate, different less-rattling tubes and maybe a different back panel if mine is pre-correction, but I might as well get a different amp which I'm sceptical about, as Steve D said:
"... there is always a difference between each amp due to valve parameters and pot tolerances etc. so you may find one amp more trebly than another or more bassy or more gainy, this is evident when experimenting with valve changing."

Steve D, can I kindly ask you to illuminate the origin of my 2266c? Is it pre or post corrections? Thanks for this design, beautiful amp!

My SN is: M-2007-13-0575-1 ROHS
and there's a little sticker on the corner of the chassis saying "Finishing B.Halsall" (what is that all about?)

Best regards and thanks in advance,
Bole

[SteveD]

Welcome to the forum realbole. :)

"The Tube Rattle"
Yeah it's there. But I found that it goes away almost completely, if you (gently but firmly) push the tubes into their sockets a bit(!), using a clean rag or something to protect your fingers. A little push and the rattle is gone. You have to hold it though...
I read the debate about new type of retainers but I guess they wouldn't help much while they would be vibrating along with the Amp. Some kind of a firm retainers could help though. A bridge that would firmly hold the tubes to their sockets (not the springie ones I guess). Dunno if that's good for the tubes though.
Maybe Steve D could say something about this Idea?

We have been investigating various options for this but it seems a real solution would lie at the manufacturing stage of the valves which we have limited control over. Bear in mind that what works on yours won't necessarily work on a whole batch of units.

"Back Panel Rattle"
Dunno if that's the case with my amp. I took it off the first day to check on "Tube Rattle" and never put it back on. I do figure that the metal panel stabilizes the wooden board underneath it when screwed on. At higher volumes it might be of some importance to minimizing mechanical rattle of the Amp.

It's easy to see if you have a pre revised back grille problem because it should have a small gap between it and the amp chassis. If it is actually touching then it can vibrate particularly at high volume.

"Transformer Buzz"
I don't hear any yet, although I read somewhere that mechanical noises can develop in time with 2266c, that worries me a bit.
There's no aluminum plate between the chassis and the power transformer, but it doesn't buzz either.
Steve D, is there a chance that it will develop a buzz in time, if it doesn't buzz from the beginning?

If it isn't buzzing now then it's unlikely to start. They didn't all buzz, only a few, however the aluminium plate ensures that none do in production.

Steve said this as well: "There will be some very low level mains hum vibration detectable only in very quiet environments, this is natural."
I do get some hum when switching the stand-by on, even with the volume down to 0. It comes from the back of the amp and it goes away when stand-by switch is turned back off (meaning the amp is muted). I imagine that's the output transformer being turned on and off. Right?

A little mains hum is natural and when you put the amp on standby you are switching off the high voltage to the valves and thus any amplification.

"Purple Led"
And finally... Yes, it did blew up on me too, just two days ago, but I don't care!
I even kinda like it with only the blue/white dynamic range light, and that also tells me that the amp is on.
The main purple led has no other function, right? I may fix it some time though.

You have one from a faulty batch. It's very easy to replace though.

My SN is: M-2007-13-0575-1 ROHS
and there's a little sticker on the corner of the chassis saying "Finishing B.Halsall" (what is that all about?)

Your amp was built in 2007 in week 13 and is number 575.

Finishing are the guys who put the levant covering, fret, corners, piping and feet etc on the amp. B. Halsall is the name of the person who did this to your amp.

[realbole]

Thanks a lot Steve! :)

[TexTone]

A followup question to SteveD.

My combo was purchased used, it seems fine, I haven't noticed any tube rattle or heat issues on mine even at low volume or for that matter slightly higher volume.

I was reading this post and wondered too about what changes the factory did if any and when were they implemented. I just read that the metal cover has a newer style which has a slight gap between the cover and chassis. I looked at mine, it looks like a slight gap on the top edge, maybe a 1/16" or so from the vented plate to the back of the amp.

Also, my SN is: 2007 30-1210-2 RoHs (I know about the RoHs statement, we have it on your work stuff too)

I'm assuming it's a 2007 build, 30th week and the 1210th VM to be built that year according to the posts above. However I noticed my amp has a -2 on it while the one mentioned about has a -1. Does the -2 denote a change in manufacturing like a version 2 or build 2?

Just curious, also I've noticed the presence knob has very little if any effect on my tone at low volumes, if there an issue with this or is it normal? Seems like the presence on other Marshalls seemed to much more responsive.

thanks!

[LivewireBlanco]

The presence knob will have greater affect when the MV is turned to higher settings. This is normal for Marshall amps of all types.

[TexTone]

The presence knob will have greater affect when the MV is turned to higher settings. This is normal for Marshall amps of all types.

Thanks Livewire, I thought that was normal but I do recall a old Marshall or two I've had seemed to be a little more responsive but I do think that was because I ran them through a stack and the tubes were, "warm". :Bounce

I see you are in San Angelo, I used to live in Brownwood for about 4 years before moving back to Dallas. We used to go to SA and Abilene now and again on the weekends to find something to do.


Still wanting to know about the revision of my combo from SteveD or someone else in the know please. 2007 30-1210-2 Model 2266C, was it post or pre fixes for the back plate and the power lamp and tube rattle?


Thanks!

[SteveD]

The '2' on the serial number indicates it is an export 120V model. That number changes depending on which territory they are sent to. The only revision you won't have is the latest indicator but if yours is working fine then don't worry about it.

[TexTone]

The '2' on the serial number indicates it is an export 120V model. That number changes depending on which territory they are sent to. The only revision you won't have is the latest indicator but if yours is working fine then don't worry about it.

Thanks Steve, that's all I needed to know and I'm quite happy with my amp, man you guys did a hellofa job designing this amp and I don't get why these amps aren't more popular than the regular Marshalls in the music stores. It's more versatile and frankly sounds better than the other Marshalls I've played in the stores.
They're priced right, considering it's a high end Marshall, surely it's not the purple???

[TexTone]

Update, I was playing my VM combo yesterday and looked over at the amp and noticed the blue power indicator light was very dim and flickering, I kept playing and later looked at it was not lit at all.

I powered it off and had dinner then later last night a jammed for a bit and when I powered it up there was no light on the indicator. Only the gain indicator lamp is working.

I purchased this amp used (no warranty?), I guess I'll have to buy a indicator lamp bulb or assembly now because I'm not the original owner? If so, can someone tell me the cost and where to order said part?

thanks!

[SteveD]

The part number is BULB-0007. Korg is our distributor in the States.

[slowpokerhino]

Might be easier to just order it here: http://www.guitar-parts.com/products/16 ... -Light.htm

[TexTone]

thanks, didn't realize I could order it online.