RAT Hotrodded Marshall Class 5

Marshall Class 5

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surfnorthwest
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RAT Hotrodded Marshall Class 5

Postby surfnorthwest » 11 Jan 2011, 15:34

Forum member neozecat found this but since it may gererate a lot of discussion I did not want it to clutter the picture thread so I moved it here. Looks like some nice mods but they come at a price.

Here she is
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RAT-HOTROD-MARSHA ... 51973a07da

This Amp has been 'RAT' Hot Rodded

http://www.ratvalveamps.com
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This is a Superb Little Marshall Amp with a Factory Custom 'White' Tolex and 'Cane' Speaker Grille Finish. The Original Old Style, Plexiglass 'MARSHALL' Badge is also a Nice touch.

The Amp is an All Valve, Class A, Single Ended, 5 Watt Design. Rather than just copy an Existing Circuit from one of the Recent Flood of 5 Watt Valve Amps, Marshall has gone the extra Mile and produced an Original Design Amp with NONE of the Usual Faults. There is NO Heater 'Buzz' - NO Circuit 'HUM' - It uses a Nice 3 Stage Gain Design, again, without a Ton of 'HISS'. Limited 'Clean' Headroom, but Loads of Great Marshall 'Crunch'. The Build Quality is Good and the Amp Looks and Sounds Fantastic.

On the Test Bench the Amp is Producing 6.4 Watts RMS and about 10 Watts Peak Power into 16 Ohms. The Speaker is a Custom Spec Celestion 10", 15 Watt, 16 Ohm Driver. The Only Problem I can find with the Amp is that you have to run it FLAT-OUT to get the 'Classic' Marshall Sound, then it's too Loud for Home Use......RAT 'OPR' sorts that out......

There is always Room for Improvement and I have added some Choice Extras-


- Additional 'RAT' Features -

1. - 'OPR' - Output Power Reduction.

http://www.ratvalveamps.com/power-scaling

'OPR' lets you get a true 'Cranked Amp Sound' at VERY Low Volume Levels - Fat Harmonics - Sustain a Mile Long - the Full Works, but at a Volume level you can 'Talk' over. Simple to use, Just like a Normal Volume Control, but as you 'Dial Down the Power' - The Volume Drops but the Tone is Maintained. The Output Power of the Amplifier can be Varied from 100% down to Less than 1% of the Full Rating - Fully Maintaining the Warm Tone and Natural Harmonics of the Output Valve. Waste Heat from the Output Stage is Dramatically reduced as the Power is Dialled down, Greatly Extending Valve Life.

2. - Variable Boost Footswitch - A Boost Footswitch with a Built-In Gain Control. The Footswitch Connects to the Back of the Amp and you can set Just how much Gain you want with A Rotary Control located near the Push-Button On/Off Switch. It Works Great and Gives you that extra 'Kick' when Needed. A Red LED Illuminates when 'Boost' is Selected. There is a Trade-off when using the Variable Boost. The Higher the Boost is set - the Less Effective the Tone Controls Are. In Practice this is not a Problem because at 'Full Boost' the Tone Network is 'Flat' and allows the 'Mids' to Cut Through Nicely.

3. Master Volume Control - Allows Preamp Overdrive -or- Power Amp Overdrive -or- Both.

4. - 3x Bias Switch - This Control changes the Preamp Valve Bias to one of 3 settings -

A. - 'Up' Position is 'Sharp and Bright' with Reduced Bass Response.

B. - Centre Position is 'Clean and Mellow'.

C. - 'Down' Position is Factory Standard.

5. - Modified 'Tone Stack' - The Factory Tone Controls do not allow total Tone Control. The Modified Treble, Middle and Bass controls now Sweep from 'Zero-to-Max' on each Frequency.

6. - All Amps that pass through the 'RAT' Workshop are 'PAT' Approved -

http://www.ratvalveamps.com/pat-approval

- And Finally -

A few words about 'OPR' (Output Power Reduction) - The Primary Purpose of 'OPR' is to give you access to the Sound of 'Output Valve Distortion' at Reduced Volume Levels. 'OPR' will do Little or Nothing until the Output Valve is being Driven Hard and Producing 'Harmonic Distortion' - Then, it Rules!!

This is a Superb Amplifier and you WILL be Delighted with it's Performance - If not, I will give you your Money Back.
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'When I Don't Have Anything Interesting to Play, I just Play Fast' But then who wants to hear 64 bars full of 32nd-notes except the douche-bag blowing them from the stage.


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Re: RAT Hotrodded Marshall Class 5

Postby DSL100 Dude » 11 Jan 2011, 22:22

Very interesting but is there any market for this in the States? I like the bells and whistles for sure but by the time it hits here with freight and taxes I am guessing the amp would be like 1K?
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Re: RAT Hotrodded Marshall Class 5

Postby Vinny » 12 Jan 2011, 08:32

Missa love-it!
:Thumbs

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Re: RAT Hotrodded Marshall Class 5

Postby explorer rob » 12 Jan 2011, 17:35

Awhile back a fellow was asking about marketing a master volume control kit. He was selling a modded C5 on ebay, and I asked him how this was achieved. This was his response:
- Get a 500k pot (#3477 from stewmac.com)
- Get 6 inches of Belden 9396 mic cable
- cable piece covered in white plastic soldered to middle lug on pot
- uncovered silver wire to either side of pot
- snip out R26 resistor
- run pot through R26 connections
- mount pot on console
Is this a valid installation for a master volume? Or, will this F up a perfectly good amp? I wanted to share this, as mods have been coming out and I hope it would help someone. Mine works fine with an attenuator. Can an electronics expert look into this? I also have found a C5 schematic through searching the web.

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Re: RAT Hotrodded Marshall Class 5

Postby bluesbrother » 12 Jan 2011, 22:06

Surf , that is a cool catch.
On there website they also got a handwired 18 watt plexi with all these
features and even a FX -loop. At a price of 449 pounds ........ :think
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Re: RAT Hotrodded Marshall Class 5

Postby Don » 13 Jan 2011, 12:49

explorer rob wrote:Awhile back a fellow was asking about marketing a master volume control kit. He was selling a modded C5 on ebay, and I asked him how this was achieved. This was his response:
- Get a 500k pot (#3477 from stewmac.com)
- Get 6 inches of Belden 9396 mic cable
- cable piece covered in white plastic soldered to middle lug on pot
- uncovered silver wire to either side of pot
- snip out R26 resistor
- run pot through R26 connections
- mount pot on console
Is this a valid installation for a master volume? Or, will this F up a perfectly good amp? I wanted to share this, as mods have been coming out and I hope it would help someone. Mine works fine with an attenuator. Can an electronics expert look into this? I also have found a C5 schematic through searching the web.

I had been thinking about this since installing a Metro Amps Lar/Mar PPIV Master volume control in one of my amps. This is similar (kind of like half of a PPIV Master Volume Control- a Post Driver Master Volume Control?). A big difference between this and the Metro Amps master is that their's includes 2.2meg resistors over the pot to protect the tubes if the pot fails. This works well on a 2-tube class AB amp. I have no idea how well it would work on a single tube SE amp.

It's probably a better idea to consider using an attenuaotr with this amp. In fact, I'm considering modifying the headphone switch to incorporate a less aggressive attenuator (6dB, just to take the edge off).

BTW, I am not an electronics expert. Please use what I say as only a small part of your research into this matter!

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Re: RAT Hotrodded Marshall Class 5

Postby KevinOConnor » 14 Jan 2011, 15:10

Hi Guys

Note that Rat's "OPR" _is_ Power Scaling. Andy is a licenced builder.

A master volume won't mess up the Class-5 but will in fact make it far more useful.

Have fun
Kevin O'Connor

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Re: RAT Hotrodded Marshall Class 5

Postby Beck-Ola » 14 Jan 2011, 18:28

explorer rob wrote:Awhile back a fellow was asking about marketing a master volume control kit. He was selling a modded C5 on ebay, and I asked him how this was achieved. This was his response:
- Get a 500k pot (#3477 from stewmac.com)
- Get 6 inches of Belden 9396 mic cable
- cable piece covered in white plastic soldered to middle lug on pot
- uncovered silver wire to either side of pot
- snip out R26 resistor
- run pot through R26 connections
- mount pot on console
Is this a valid installation for a master volume? Or, will this F up a perfectly good amp? I wanted to share this, as mods have been coming out and I hope it would help someone. Mine works fine with an attenuator. Can an electronics expert look into this? I also have found a C5 schematic through searching the web.
Yes, Explorer Rob. This would be a valid Master Volume installation on this amp. Just make that "uncovered silver wire" connection to the grounded side of the pot though. Would not "ruin" the amp, although what you would be giving up when turning it down would be output tube distortion. The power scaling route (or attenuator) would seem like a better way to go.
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