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Now there's a great idea C&C! You mean I can take my Marshall PB100 and take one out as a dummy load into the PB100, then one line out to my cab and do you think that might help it to stop squealing from that squeal problem I had with the PB100?ClubAndCountry wrote:If you love them, love the amp, love the tone, and can't easily trade the amp for a 2266, the solution is simple - get an attenuator. If you knock off 3dB that's equivalent to halving the power of the amp - probably just about enough to get you into the safe range, since the 2466 isn't really a full 100W amp - and if you take off 4dB or more, almost certainly safe. Celestions are rated very conservatively compared to most speakers. (But not conservatively enough for what you're doing now!)
You can either do it the conventional way with the attenuator between the amp and speaker, or if you think that will affect the tone too much (which in my opinion it doesn't) you can run the attenuator as a dummy speaker cab, in parallel with the real one, and which will absorb half the amp's power. (Remember to set the amp to half the impedance of the the cab and attenuator.)
If you're in Holland, I'd recommend the Koch Loadbox, which is a well-made attenuator with a useful set of functions including a perfect - for your needs - 40%-level output, and should be easy to find!
http://www.koch-amps.com/koch/index.php ... &Itemid=20
frank9310 wrote:Now there's a great idea C&C! You mean I can take my Marshall PB100 and take one out as a dummy load into the PB100, then one line out to my cab and do you think that might help it to stop squealing from that squeal problem I had with the PB100?ClubAndCountry wrote:If you love them, love the amp, love the tone, and can't easily trade the amp for a 2266, the solution is simple - get an attenuator. If you knock off 3dB that's equivalent to halving the power of the amp - probably just about enough to get you into the safe range, since the 2466 isn't really a full 100W amp - and if you take off 4dB or more, almost certainly safe. Celestions are rated very conservatively compared to most speakers. (But not conservatively enough for what you're doing now!)
You can either do it the conventional way with the attenuator between the amp and speaker, or if you think that will affect the tone too much (which in my opinion it doesn't) you can run the attenuator as a dummy speaker cab, in parallel with the real one, and which will absorb half the amp's power. (Remember to set the amp to half the impedance of the the cab and attenuator.)
If you're in Holland, I'd recommend the Koch Loadbox, which is a well-made attenuator with a useful set of functions including a perfect - for your needs - 40%-level output, and should be easy to find!
http://www.koch-amps.com/koch/index.php ... &Itemid=20
I dropped it (PB100) off at my amp tech's and he said he ran a test on it and the transformer tested ok so the squeal caused by the PB100 (from my other thread) must just be the nature of the beast.
So if I have an 8 Ohm cab, what would I set the amp to and the PB100?
I always play in Low Dynamic Range, with the Master 3/4 to full, and the body and detail just before noon. I do use a overdrive and a solobooster. It gets pretty loud, but no problems so far. Rehursed with the band yesterday this way. Good sound!Slashwannabe1 wrote:You should have just asked me what happens when you put a 100watt Vintage Modern up to 8-9 on the master volume on a 100 watt cab...
Smoke and Fire is the result after 5 min of chunky metal riffs.
Pretty sure a 40 watt cab would go in the first 30 seconds.
Still one of the best pairing combinations for a good rock amp, I have a 4x12 loaded with two of each and use my Granger M50 with that cabinetGet yourself a 60 watt Celestion Vintage 30 and a G12H30 and the G12H30
I had the Jensen Mod12-50s, 50 watt each 100 watt musical power each LOL I figured I was safe with the musical power added on intially. I actually did like the tone of those. I did manage to save 1 of those speakers and I put it in place of one of my Celestion G12-Fs that sounded flabby in my 4x12 cab when clean. So my 4x12 now consists of 3 G12-fs and 1 Mod 12-50 running together @ 8 ohms. The other Mod12-50 was a complete loss all charred up.ClubAndCountry wrote:Frank - a V30 (60W) and a G12H-30 (30W) is *not* enough for a 77W amp - it's only a 60W pair. (Not 90W, if you thought that!) The power is divided equally between the two speakers so you can't put more than 60W through the pair before the H30 gets 30W. So you're actually wasting the higher rating of the V30 entirely - it will handle the 60W on its own.
I prefer either the G12H-30/G12M-25 mix, or the V30/Classic Lead 80 - those mixes just sound more 'right' to me than the V30/H30 - which admittedly I only tried once (and only in a 2x12", not a 4x12") but thought the speakers sounded as if they were fighting each other a bit. You also can't drive the V30 hard (which it likes) without overpowering the H30 (which it doesn't). The other two combinations allow you to drive the right speaker fully before the other one reaches its limit. Just my opinion of course, and there are probably as many of those as combinations of speakers! Another apparently popular combination I don't like is a V30 with a G12M-25 - it sounds too unbalanced to me.
Slashwannabe - wasn't that 100W cab loaded with Jensens? They are very weak in relation to Celestions of the same rating, less even than Eminences... I wouldn't say much more than half the equivalent Celestion rating, and if so it doesn't surprise me that you fried a "100W" cab with them in, using a 77W amp. But a Celestion 100W cab will take a 100W amp unless you're really hammering it with an octave fuzz or something like that.
(I'm inherently suspicious of any company that quotes 'music power' on their specs, by the way.)
Yeah I know what you mean and in theory that is true, but the G12H30 is a tough speaker (with a 50 oz magnet vs 35 oz on a greenback with a stiff bass cone) as is the V30 where Marshall rates them at 70 watts and this is the combination they use in their JCM 2000 TSL 122 100 watt combo amp and tout it as the best match in the world for vintage and modern sounds. Also, many others I've seen around the forums seem to agree. So if Marshall feels they're a match made in heaven for their 100 watt amp, then surely the 77 watt (100 watt maximum) 2466 should work just fine, especially if you're not one to dime your amp on high range on a regular basis. I used to play a Dr Z Route 66 (2xKT66s) which is equivalent to a JTM45 in terms of output and I ran a single G12H30 with that for several 4+ hour gigs dimed with an overdrive such as an OCD or ZVex box of rock, probably pushing close to 50 watts and never had a problem. Still works and sounds great.ClubAndCountry wrote:Frank - a V30 (60W) and a G12H-30 (30W) is *not* enough for a 77W amp - it's only a 60W pair. (Not 90W, if you thought that!) The power is divided equally between the two speakers so you can't put more than 60W through the pair before the H30 gets 30W. So you're actually wasting the higher rating of the V30 entirely - it will handle the 60W on its own.
Man something's gotta be headed south there because I regularly run my 2466 on 8-9 through 2 x v30s on high range with 2 stacked overdrives on top of that and seems to work fine! (knock on wood!;-)Slashwannabe1 wrote:Slashwannabe1 wrote:You should have just asked me what happens when you put a 100watt Vintage Modern up to 8-9 on the master volume on a 100 watt cab...
Smoke and Fire is the result after 5 min of chunky metal riffs.
Pretty sure a 40 watt cab would go in the first 30 secohnds.
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